FAQ’s & Spa Cover Care

How to Measure a Spa Cover

*MEASURE THE SPA! NOT THE ORIGINAL SPA COVER!*

Spa covers can warp, stretch, shrink, etc. over time and cannot be relied upon to provide accurate measurements.

IT HAS TO BE BIG ENOUGH TO FIT!

A spa cover that is slightly oversize will function effectively. A spa cover that is slightly undersize will not. Better to err on the oversize side of caution!

Most spa owners choose to cover only the acrylic shell. In this instance, measure from the outside of the acrylic shell at the widest point of the “lip” (many lips are curved and the spa “‘skirt” must be wide enough to sit completely over the lip).

Occasionally, spa owners would like to cover both the shell and the wood lip. If so, the measurement should be taken from the outside of the wood skirt. And make sure to advise us that we are making it to cover the wood skirt!)

The “Acrylic Shell Size” will be used to determine the size of the finished spa cover. The “Lip Height” will be used to determine the cover’s “Skirt” length.

SPECIFY “Hinge” direction. Which way will the cover fold? The dotted lines found in the diagrams on our order sheet indicate the fold direction. Make sure to take this into account when entering the spa’s “A” and “B” dimensions.

SOME covers have ROUNDED CORNERS. Be sure to measure all corners to determine if they are ALL the same size! (Note: A slightly smaller radius will slightly over hang the spa while a larger radius will not cover the spa completely). One method of determining a spa’s corner radius is to use a “carpenter’s square”. Hold it up against the corner of the spa as you see in the diagram to the right. The radius is the measurement between the inside corner of the square and where the curve of the spa corner first touches the square

SOME covers have CUT CORNERS. The diagram to the right shows the measurement required for the cut corner. Be sure to measure all corners and that they are ALL the same size. (Note: A slightly smaller cut-corner will cause the cover to slightly over hang the spa while a larger cut will not cover the spa completely)

How to Measure the Skirt on a Spa Cover

Take your tape measure and run it from the bottom of your skirt to the top of your Spa Cover. Your skirt measurement will be where the bottom of the skirt starts and the bottom of the Spa Cover starts (see black arrow in photo below for reference) In this case the skirt measures out to be 4.5 inches.

How to Add Tie Down Extensions

Below is a instructional video on how to add tie down extensions to your existing tie down straps

Atlantis Solution-Dyed Polyesters Durability

Our materials are coated on the underside with polyurethane (PU) which is the ‘waterproofing’ layer. Although waterproof, note that the zillions of stitch holes that are created when the skins are sewn do permit water ingress/egress. The colour is then mixed into the polyester layer which is why it is referred to as ‘solution-dyed’ (the dye is mixed with the material, not applied only to the surface). If this fabric was used with only these processes applied, it would still retain its water resistance in that it would not allow water to flow through it. BUT once water would be applied to the surface (e.g. rain water), the polyester would become saturated (referred to as ‘wetting out’). So, manufacturers apply a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish to their waterproof/water-resistant fabrics. There are lots of different solutions that are used for this process but they all do the same thing: They prevent water from saturating the fabric. You’ll notice that on new covers, water applied to it will bead as shown in the image below:

After exposure to weather (rain, sun, snow) and/or after a few cleanings, owners will notice that the beading action diminishes and the fabric starts to appear saturated. This is because the DWR layer is wearing away. Once this happens, owners will want to re-apply a DWR agent. A brand we know well is ‘303 Weather Guard’.

Does the Spa Cover’s Skirt Create a “Heat Seal”

It might surprise you that the answer is NO! But it is true.

Hot tub covers have skirts for a number of important reasons: aesthetic purposes, keeping debris out of the tub, protecting the acrylic lip from UV exposure, keeping the cover in position on the tub, etc.

But the skirt isn’t a factor in heat retention. Lots of people believe that tight-fitting covers help the skirts to creates a “seal” which will reduce heat loss. This just simply is not the case. It is the hot tub cover’s foam that sits on top of the tub and the insulation the hot tub manufacturer builds into the hot tub’s surround that work together to retain heat.

In fact, ordering a cover that fits so tight that an effort is required to get the cover to open and close properly without having to fight with the skirts will result in problems once the cover begins to age. Constantly tugging on the skirts can eventually tear the seams and the material. It also make the cover harder to operate smoothly – especially in winter when the material gets stiffer.

A well-fitting hot tub cover will be big enough for the skirts to drape nicely without touching the hot tub’s surround.

Ice Buildup/Steam Escape on a New Spa Cover

Over time, hot tub covers “settle” (for lack of a better word) onto the lip of the hot tub. When covers are new, the foam is very light and the material components are not very pliable. The air spaces in the foam (both in the inserts and in the center insulating baffles) gradually compress onto surfaces that bear weight. In other words, the foam’s own weight slightly compresses itself when resting on the lip of the tub, and the foam between the two halves compresses slightly from the force of the two halves upon it. During the process, the materials (vinyl and underside liner) relax into position over the foam. Your customers will notice over time that they feel more “suction” when they open the cover.

The settling process is normally only noticed in the colder season because of the ice buildup that can occur. Users experiencing ice buildup during “pre-settling” should make certain to melt the ice buildup with warm water so that it doesn’t continue to build – because once it ice starts to build up on the lip, the foam will raise off the surface even more, and the ice buildup will continue to increase.

Once the ice has been melted, the user can press slightly onto the foam – but only above the lip! – to help speed up the settling process.

Why Vapor Barrier Upgrades Matter

When hot tub water is sanitized, whether with chlorine or bromine, the chemical reaction that kills bacteria and contaminants also produces corrosive off-gasses. These gases rise and become trapped under the hot tub cover where they gradually degrade two critical components: the underside fabric and, more importantly, the vapor barrier that surrounds the foam core inside the cover.

The vapor barrier is designed to protect the foam from moisture absorption, but over time, these chemical off-gasses break it down. Once compromised, the foam begins to absorb moisture, leading to a heavy, waterlogged cover that loses its insulating properties and becomes difficult to handle.

While there are defensive measures users can take to reduce this damage (covered in other ‘blurbs’), the best offensive strategy is to upgrade the vapor barrier itself. There are two effective ways to do this:

Increase the thickness of the vapor barrier, creating a more robust line of defense.
Use multiple layers of vapor barrier, which provides the greatest protection.

Why multiple layers? Standard vapor barrier materials have microscopic air spaces between their molecular structures. When two layers are used, the air gaps in one layer tend to overlap with those in the second, significantly reducing the pathways through which moisture and chemical gases can penetrate. This overlapping effect creates a more resilient and water-resistant barrier—especially critical in high-use or high-chemical environments.Upgrading the vapor barrier is a smart, proactive step in extending the life of a hot tub cover and preserving its performance.

Corner and Side Appearance of a New Spa Cover

Please note that all spa covers received from us may initially show some visible “bunching” in the corners, and occasionally along the sides. This is completely normal/expected, and will diminish over time once the cover has been exposed to sunlight and/or placed on the hot tub for a period of time.

This appearance results from the way our covers are constructed. Each cover is wrapped in a polyethylene vapor barrier (commonly referred to as plastic), which is then heat-sealed at the ends. The thicker the vapor barrier, the more rigid it becomes. In the case of a customer ordering an upgraded vapor barrier like our 14mil option, which consists of two layers of thick poly, fully sealed together—the ridges are more pronounce.

The heat-sealing process creates a “melt line” that is inherently stiffer and more noticeable, particularly around the corners. Since heat sealers use straight jaws, they cannot seal around curves. As a result, the corners of the poly sleeve are folded and taped in place, which create visible bunching. While this process ensures a secure, long-lasting seal, it cannot be done seamlessly due to the material and the limitations of heat-sealing technology. This effect is slightly more visible on our Atlantis covers due to the lighter nature of the fabric, though it is also seen on standard vinyl.

We want to reassure you and your customers that this is entirely normal and not indicative of any manufacturing defect. As with all flexible plastic materials, the vapor barrier will soften with time and heat, and these visual irregularities will become virtually unnoticeable.

Please Note: These characteristics tend to be more apparent in colder months, as it takes longer for the materials to soften in cooler temperatures

Why we don’t send Screws with Locks and Keys

We stopped shipping screws with our covers a loooong time ago! We found that they were often lost or they thrown away with the packaging, sometimes even getting caught inside the cover and indenting the foam. We also learned that most people never even attach their locks… If you do end up needing some screws the standard size used is #6 x 3/4″

Spa Cover Care

Mold on a Cover:

There is a type of black mold that can be found in hot tubs, unfortunately by the time mold is visible on the cover and the surface of the water, it will already be hiding away in the plumbing as well. Once it takes hold, it is a lot of work to resolve… this is why it is important to educate hot tub owners about ways to avoid any of the mold or mildew strains.

The most common reason for black mold, which is sticky and extremely difficult to get rid of, is improper sanitizer management. Mold spores are literally EVERYWHERE and they are not visible to the naked eye. All it takes is for a few spores to make their way into a moist, humid environment (aka a hot tub) and trouble can begin.

The best way to treat the cover is to use a diluted bleach and water solution to clean it off, remove the cover off the tub and either use a spray bottle or a bucket of solution combined with a cloth or brush to clean it off.

Spa Cover Filling With Water That Won’t Drain:

Most people don’t realize that hot tub covers are not waterproof – even those built with our water-resistant materials. This is because there are thousands of stitch holes created when the material components are sewn together. Additionally, Several things might have caused this:

The water level has been maintained too high at some point in time
The cover was left on with the jets running when the water was high
Bathers have at times sat inside the tub with the cover half open, raising the water level.

The underside of hot tub covers have intentional drain holes built in that help water conveyance through the cover. Any of the above actions can cause the underside liner material to “stick” onto the vapor barrier that is wrapped around the foam. This results in blockage of the drain holes so that water can no longer escape.

Unblocking the holes by unzipping the cover and sliding an arm in between the vapor barrier and the liner material should help. If, though, this has been ongoing, the poly may have stretched from the weight of the water and it might continue to block the holes. If that’s the case, the foam can be removed from the cover so that the vapour barrier can be re-tightened with packing tape or duct tape. It is important to note that failure to act on this quickly will result in saturation of the foam.

Keep Your Hot Tub Away From Hot/Reflective Surfaces:

Hot or reflective surfaces, such as reflective glass windows, greenhouses, and metal fencing, can generate and concentrate heat in their surroundings, leading to significant temperature increases. When sunlight strikes these surfaces, they can reflect or amplify heat, creating a microenvironment that can elevate temperatures to levels that exceed the thermal tolerance of materials like hot tub covers and siding. This intense heat can cause the plastic or vinyl components of hot tub covers to warp, melt, or degrade over time, while the siding may suffer from discoloration or damage. Consequently, if hot tubs are situated near these reflective surfaces, they risk experiencing accelerated wear and reduced longevity due to the excessive heat exposure.

Ways to Help Prolong Your Cover From Water Uptake:

There are a number of factors that affect the rate at which the foam in your hot tub cover will uptake water. Below is a list of those factors and how to address them:

1 – Foam Breaks

When Expanded Polystyrene foam (which is used to build spa covers) breaks, it takes on water rapidly. If this happens on a newer cover (1-2 years old) replacing the foam panel should be considered, if this happens on an older spa cover (3+ years old) it may be time to replace the spa cover completely. Trying to replace a foam panel in an older cover often results in the material tearing when trying to insert the new foam panel, this is due to the fabric/vinyl material tightening overtime due to sun and chemical exposure.

2 – The use of Chlorine rather than Bromine for Sanitizing

Chlorine off-gasses at a much lower temperature than Bromine. This off-gassing will result in the breakdown of the underside liner material and the vapour barrier wrap that surrounds the foam in your cover faster.

3 – “Shocking” your Hot Tub

Leaving the hot tub cover on your hot tub after dosing with a strong sanitizer is not recommended. The cover should be removed for a at least a full hour after dosing, this will give the harsh chemicals time to off-gas.

4 – Water Levels are too High

If the water level in your hot tub is too high, the water forces the drain holes on the underside of the cover to adhere to the vapour barrier that is wrapped around the foam inside and become ‘blocked’ trapping water inside for periods of time. This is further exacerbated if the reason for the higher water level is because the bather sits in the tub with the cover half open while running the jets (see below). It is recommended to keep your water level 1-2 inches above the highest jet or just below the head rests.

Contact:

info@alpinespacovers.com

2103 – 43rd Street, Vernon B.C. V1T 6K7

Tel: 250-545-7779
Fax: 250-542-1788

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